Material |
Material: Reclaimed Pine cabinet and top. Optional Maple top.
Reclaimed Wood: Reclaimed cabinets are crafted from old timber reclaimed from the roof joist or flooring of old buildings. Exposure of this wood to the elements over the years has produced beautiful and weathered surfaces. The old timber was selected for its graining and distinctive characteristics then de-nailed, planed, and cut. After being sanded and hand finished, the result is a finished piece which resembles a genuine antique. Each item is unique and handmade using “old world” workmanship which may cause slight differences in measurements. The minor splitting, cracking, and crazing that may occur creates the antique but spirited look that is part of the charm and appeal of these tables. Due to natural aging and weathering, old pine is a harder wood than new pine.
Maple: Maple is strong, heavy, hard, straight-grained and fine textured. It is a light white hardwood that sometimes has a reddish tinge. One of the hardest wood species, maple is often chosen for heavy-use items, like dressers and kitchen cabinets. Along with cherry, walnut, and oak, maple is considered to be among the favorite hardwood choices for furniture building. Maple is generally considered to be very durable, and attractive when properly finished.
Janka Hardness (Higher = Harder): New Pine: 420, Reclaimed Pine 600 – 650, Maple: 950.
Density (lbs/cubic ft): Pine = 30. Maple = 45.
Check Cracks: Our wood tables and cabinets are constructed from real trees and/or solid planks of reclaimed wood, not engineered wood, and professionally dried to 6 – 12% moisture content before any build. Solid wood adjusts to the moisture content in the air at different times of the year. In a sense, the wood breathes just like us. Therefore, the temperature and humidity of your home will affect how your table behaves. We use a glued wood plank construction for cabinets and table tops.. As a result, you may notice your table and/or breadboard move slightly or develop small check cracks or dips. You may also notice occasional lifting on the epoxy or resin fills we use in processing our reclaimed wood tables. THIS IS PERFECTLY NORMAL. This is the inherent character of planked reclaimed wood construction and is not considered a defect in material, nor will affect the structural integrity of the table.
|
Measurements |
Top Thickness: Standard Top = approx. .75-.875", Thick Top = approx. 1.5-1.75". Extra Thick Top (reclaimed pine only) = approx. 2.375”-2.625”. Table tops vary in size because each piece of wood is different. The thickness of the table top is only for aesthetics and does not affect the table structure.
Double sided kitchen island cabinet = 36”W. Standard kitchen island tops have a 2” overhang on all 4 sides. Kitchen island tops can have an overhang to accommodate counter stool seating. We recommend a 14” top overhang for leg clearance and to allow stools to be pushed under the kitchen island top. We include two support brackets for overhangs up to 14”. Overhangs greater than 14” require 2 support legs.
Kitchen islands have a standard height of 36”H, the same height as a kitchen countertop. We can supply any height up to 42”H which is bar height.
Leg Sizes: Standard legs: 3.5-4"W, Large legs: 4.5-5"W. Kitchen island support legs come standard as large legs. We can supply standard size legs as an option.
Overhang Aprons with Support legs: Apron heights are 4”H. The bottom of the apron is 31” from the floor.
Corners & Edges: Square: square corners and ⅛” radius on edges. Rounded: 1” corner radius on standard top and 1.5” corner radius on thick top, ¼” radius on edges for both thicknesses.
Breadboard Ends: Optional. Standard sizes: 1" Breadboard for Standard 1” Top, 2" Breadboard for Thick 2” Top, 3” Breadboard for Extra Thick 3” Top. Custom widths available. A breadboard refers to the contrasting piece of wood at the end of the table. In the past, it was used to ensure that the plank top table didn't warp, but today is purely decorative. Please note: The breadboard end does move with changes of temperature and humidity, and the ends may extend beyond the table edge during the colder, drier months of the year.
|
Distressing |
The level of distressing specified for each table is based on the final “look” desired. Each table is unique and the patterns are different for each table.
Standard medium distressing varies from some distressing to more distressing. Smooth distressing will have minimum distressing but will not be completely free of marks. Rustic distressing is much heavier distressing and can include a lot of saw marks, nail holes, knots, etc.
For old wood tables, this is far from an exact science as the builder uses the boards available and we can only specify using these broad guidelines.
|
Product Care |
Since these are wood products, we recommend the use of place mats, coasters and hot pads to maintain the original finish.
Surfaces should be cleaned with a damp sponge and dried with a soft, clean cloth. Commercial cleaners should be avoided as they can dull the surface. Waxes and polishes are not recommended or required.
|
Reviews
There are no reviews yet.